Grand Portage, Minnesota

I was scanning photos from old albums recently, and I decided to make a trip log for them. After all, these were the trips that taught me most of what I know about the wilderness, and planted roots in my heart that will keep me forever connected to it. On this trip, I learned a lesson in hypothermia, and it was the first time I ever saw a moose up close. Kick back and enjoy!

A few miles offshore from Grand Portage, Minnesota, isolated within the humbling northern expanse of Lac Superieur, there is an island which they call Royale.

Accessible only by ferry, kayak, or floatplane, Isle Royale National Park is a pristine wilderness, home to a large population of moose and wolves. The island itself is over 40 miles long, by only 8 miles at the widest point. It is criss-crossed by spectacular hiking trails, and attracts wilderness enthusiasts from all over the world.

Like us, Boy Scout Troop #453, primed for High Adventure.

This trip marked the last of my real interaction with the Scout unit, as life was beginning to take other turns. High school sports, girls, flying airplanes, and getting ready for college took the high slots on the priority list. Such a wild and beautiful place was a fitting place to retire.


                       

We arrived at the marina in Grand Portage late in the afternoon, and by the time we got the tents set up, we had a spectacular sunset to enjoy. The welcome didn't last long, however. Later that night, we were hit with a nasty thunderstorm, which would set the stage for the next few days of cold, rainy weather.

Early the next morning, cold but anxious to start our adventure, we went down to the adjacent casino to witness Jim Dreyer begin his attempt to swim across Lake Superior. if I remember right, poor weather ended his attempt early.

After watching Jim launch for his journey, we headed back to the marina to begin ours. We loaded up our ferry in the rain, and began the crossing to Isle Royale in dense fog and heavy seas. But when we neared the island, the fog lifted. The sun came out, and with it a bluebird sky, and provided a dramatic unveiling of the island's rugged southwest end.

Stunning cliffs towered above the quiet waters of Washington Harbor, dwarfing the moose foraging along the shoreline on both sides. When we landed at the Windigo ranger station, we were all working hard at holding back our excitement.

I didn't know yet that in a couple of days, I would learn a valuable lesson about hypothermia. Not a real serious situation, but one that I'll not soon forget.


                       

We set out that first day for the campsite at Feldtmann Lake, an easy push for the first day. When we hiked back then, we tended to string apart, leaving lots of opportunity for solitude and reflection on the trail. It wasn't something we did on purpose, but something that I always enjoyed. Group dynamics in those days were better than one could ever ask for, and morale was always high.

The next day we headed east to Siskiwit Bay, and then took for the Greenstone Ridge and Lake Desor the next. Lake Desor was simply stunning, and I wished I'd brought fishing tackle and a raft. And perhaps the best part, there are no bears on the island, so there's no need to hang the food pack in a tree.

The weather up to this point had been gray and windy, with a cold rain to complete the package. On the third day, at Ishpeming Point along the Greenstone Ridge, we stopped for lunch and stayed a bit too long. I was wet and cold, and by the time we started the push to Siskiwit Lake, I was chilled all the way through.

When we finally made camp, I was doing better but still chilled, and the finicky backpacking stoves wouldn't give us a flame. My tent partner set the tent up improperly, so when it stopped raining outside, it continued to downpour inside the tent, and onto all of our gear.

At this point, I started to worry about my chilled state. Thank GOD for synthetic sleeping bags, because mine was dry inside, along with some extra clothes I had rolled up inside it. I can't tell you all just how good it felt to change into dry clothes and climb into a warm sleeping bag. I slept through dinner and by morning, I was back to normal.

Like a blessing after three days of trials, the fourth day at Siskiwit Lake began with sunshine. Before breakfast we spread out all of our stuff on the gravel beach at Malone Bay, and by the time we were done eating, our gear was dry.

I remember that last night, three of us slept under the stars on the beach, listening to Superior roll in just inches from our feet. I fell asleep counting meteorites, after making it a point to burn that moment into memory.


                       



Copyright 2006 Brian Hartley. All rights reserved.

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