You don't have to trade your bike for your car just because there's a foot of snow on the ground. Or because the temperatures outside are -20 degrees Fahrenheit. Or because with the wind chill, it feels like -45... you get the idea.

In fact, if you live in an area that sees the changing of the seasons, consider yourself lucky, because you have the opportunity to enjoy the kind of riding that people who live in warm climates can only dream about (or would they call it a nightmare?). I'm talking about icebiking, and trust me, it's not as crazy as it sounds.

So what is icebiking? And what the hell is an icebike? An icebike is just your bike, when you ride it in the winter. Just about any kind of bike will do, in fact most of the changes in equipment required to transition from warm to cold-weather riding is in how you dress, not in how you upgrade your bike.

CLOTHING

Please see my page on Dressing for Winter Riding.

THE BIKE

The perfect platform for winter riding is an issue of debate among bikers, but really, the only bikes that don't work are “performance” road bikes, because there just isn't enough clearance to accommodate wider, low-psi tires or tires with metal studs. So if you have one of these, stop reading at once, and go buy a cheap mountain bike from the nearest garage sale.

Currently, my only bike is a Monocog. It's a simple, bulletproof, single-speed mountain bike that Redline used to make until 2007. Sadly, it has given way to their new line of “29ers” and “1 by somethings”, and it may never see production again.

For me, a single-speed mountain bike is a perfect icebike; with its wide handlebars and upright riding position, no finicky drivetrain to get gunked up with snow and road grime, and light weight to help me power through snow with a minimum of extra effort.

Road bikes, granny cruisers, fixies, Huffy's, and touring bikes work just as well, though, from what I hear. As long as you're comfortable riding it, and you trust it to get you home, it will do as an icebike.

STUDDED TIRES?

MTB purists will say that only the weak, who are incapable of seeing good lines or balancing on a wire, rely on studded tires to make up for their lack of riding prowess. These purists are idiots, in most cases. It's really a question of practicality; while one may not need them for sunny afternoon jaunts to the park, those of us who rely on bikes for transportation, regardless of weather, stand to gain a lot from the use of these magnificent contraptions.

Here in North Dakota, when it's -35 degrees outside and the snow is blowing up a whiteout in 30 mile per hour winds, and hard-packed drifts are encroaching on roads and pathways, hiding thick layers of solid ice, it's 3:00 in the morning and I am leaving work to make the seven-mile journey home, it's nice to have that extra boost of confidence that 512 tungsten carbide studs dispersed between my front and rear tires can give me.

When it's that kind of night, and I'm already exhausted after a long day, the last thing I want to do is play the slip-and-slide game.

In fact, studs are the most useful on pavement, where patches of invisible ice lie in wait to catch the unwary biker off guard. Mountain bikers who spend their time on hardpack trails or in lots of powder have little need for them, as they hardly give any extra benefit in those situations.

The most important thing to remember about icebiking is to think of safety first, and if you think you'll need studs on your ride, consider it an investment in your health and well-being. While they are certainly not a "catch-all" to replace good riding fundamentals, they can provide that little extra measure of safety. After all, at the end of the day, all that matters is that you enjoyed yourself, and you made it home to your family in one piece.

THE RIDE

Biking in the winter will make you a stronger rider. Period. It is a world apart from summer riding, mostly because you have to pay much closer attention to the road and find the true meaning of dynamic balance. Here are some tips for your first ride, because as they say, the hardest part is the first 100 yards.

1. Wear your helmet.

2. Take it slow. I'll say it again – take it slow.

3. Stick to dry pavement wherever possible.

4. Don't coast through slippery stuff. Pedal lightly to balance.

5. Use your rear brake to stop. A front wheel skid is dangerous.

6. Enjoy yourself!

Well, that about does it. I hope this helped you in your decision to continue riding through the winter. You will learn a lot more once you actually get out there and try it out, so what are you waiting for? If you're still not ready, here are some links to other winter biking resources.

Official Icebike homepage